Michael Stewart's Standing Ground to Debut at Paris Haute Couture

Vivienne Westwood

Punk fashion icon and designer known for her activism and rebellious style writings.

Irish designer Michael Stewart is poised to realize a long-held ambition as his label, Standing Ground, prepares to unveil its collection at the esteemed Paris haute couture shows. This momentous occasion, scheduled for Monday at the Irish embassy, marks a significant milestone in Stewart's journey. From his humble atelier in London, the designer meticulously orchestrates the final touches of his distinctively sculptural creations, a process he describes as complex yet essential to achieve a facade of simplicity.

Stewart's artistic vision for Standing Ground originated from a profound connection to Ireland's ancient standing stones, a concept that predates his graduation from the Royal College of Art in 2017. He describes his designs as less a direct interpretation of these stones and more an "emanation of a powerful ancient figure." This philosophical underpinning has guided his creative process for over a decade and a half, resulting in a unique aesthetic characterized by sculpted corsetry and flowing drapes. The designer emphasizes that his work is not about literal historical references but rather about capturing an inherent power and timelessness.

For many years, Stewart operated largely in obscurity, dedicating himself to his craft despite a lack of external interest. He humorously refers to this period as his "bedroom couture," highlighting his unwavering commitment to creating exceptional pieces in isolation. This resilience, born from necessity, forged a designer who was not swayed by fleeting trends. His distinctive style eventually caught the attention of Lulu Kennedy, who invited him to participate in two Fashion East shows in 2023. These showcases propelled Standing Ground into the spotlight, establishing Stewart as a pioneer among his London peers for his custom-only approach.

Following this breakthrough, Stewart garnered support from London's fashion community and a discerning clientele. Philanthropic organizations, including the Sarabande Foundation and Mark Wadhwa's 180 Strand arts complex, provided crucial studio space. A pivotal moment arrived in 2024 when he received the inaugural Savoir-Faire award of the LVMH Prize, an accolade that paved the way for his inclusion in the coveted couture calendar. His bespoke creations cater to international travelers who appreciate innovative design and prefer a discreet relationship with their chosen designers. Stewart deliberately avoids extensive publicity and social media, believing that his clients are his most effective ambassadors.

The upcoming show at the Irish Embassy in Paris will provide a rare opportunity for international press to engage with Stewart and gain insight into his focused yet unpretentious methodology. He candidly shares his philosophy: "I think you should only open your mouth when you have something to say." This event signifies the culmination of years of dedicated work and quiet perseverance, offering a moment for him to share his artistic narrative before retreating once more into his creative sanctuary.

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